When it comes to dairy hygiene, chemicals aren't magic potions, they're tools. And like any tools, you've got to know what they're built for if you want to use them properly.
There are two main types of dairy detergents:
Alkali detergents
Acid detergents
Both do very different jobs, and you'll need bothif you're serious about maximising your milk quality.
Alkali Detergents
The tough guys for fat and protein muck.
• At least 3x alkali washes a week, hot only
• Contain caustic (melts fats) and chlorine (breaks down protein)
• Caustic and chlorine also act as sanitisers killing bacteria
• Recirculate to get the job done
• Needs a follow-up acid wash to neutralise residue
Pro tip: Alkali detergents leave a powdery film if you skip the acid wash. That residue can mess with your milk and damage your gear over time.
Acid Detergents
Your go-to for hard water stains and mineral grime.
• Use daily, hot or cold, morning and night
• Often doubles as sanitisers
• Targets mineral soil like iron, manganese, calcium and silica
• Leave surfaces shiny and helps prevent milkstone build-up
• Won't do much against milk fat or protein
Why both?
• Acid cleans the inorganic stuff (think: water minerals)
• Alkali targets the organic stuff (milk fats & proteins)
One without the other? You're only doing half the job.
Detergent Myth Busting
Myth
Reality
"Hot water's enough."
Not without the right chemical for the soil type.
"Acid's just for shine."
No. It's critical for preventing mineral build-up and sanitising.
"More chemical= better clean."
Nope. Correct dosage+ time+ temp= better clean.
"Alkali works cold if I leave it longer."
Wrong. Alkali needs heat to activate properly.
The Big Picture
Cleaning products are just one piece of the hygiene puzzle and they only account for about 20% of your overall cleaning performance. The rest?
• Mechanical action (40%)
• Contact time (25%)
• Temperature (15%)
We'll get into those in the next sections. But for now, remember:
The smartest farmers clean for performance, not just appearance.